Lipid Loss Increases Stratum Corneum Stress and Drying Rates

The lipid components and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) of the stratum corneum (SC) are integral pieces of the self-regulating barrier strategy which comprises one of the most important functions of human skin and seems to be related to biomechanical responses of the SC.

This work presents the contributions of the lipid bilayers and NMFs to the barrier properties and mechanical responses of human SC.

We performed 2 biomechanical experiments, substrate curvature testing and double cantilever beam cohesion measurements, on isolated human SC exposed to either water, a 1:1 mixture of acetone/ether, or a 1:1 mixture of chloroform/methanol for various durations.

We show that treating ex vivo SC with organic solvents results in lipid extraction which increases with duration of exposure. This extraction is tied to a remarkably linear increase in the levels and rates of biaxial stress development during drying/hydration cycles. This effect appears to be tied to the total amounts of lipids extracted. Furthermore, striking changes are seen in the intercellular cohesion properties of the tissue after solvent exposure. Interestingly, changes in drying stress profiles are not observed after treatment with water, which has been previously shown to remove NMFs from the tissue, and which therefore might be expected to induce changes in the drying behavior of the skin. However, changes in intercellular cohesion and the SC cohesion gradient are seen, suggesting impacts on the corneodesmosome protein binding junctions within the tissue.

These results suggest that lipid loss causes marked increases in SC drying stresses, which may in turn contribute to changes in skin perception. NMF extraction may be important in vivo, but has remarkably little impact in isolated SC.