Nanoemulsions containing plant oils: How do they influence hair treatment?

Cosmetic and dermatological products, mainly the hair treatments, are projected to have remarkable growing in coming years. Nanotechnology, specifically nanoemulsions, has potential to be used in several hair products, owing to their beneficial properties. Concurrently, plant-derived cosmetics have become more popular over the years to consumers who prefer a safer, natural and sustainable approach. There is a lack of studies combining plant oils and nanotechnology for haircare formulations. In this work, different plant oil-loaded nanoemulsions were prepared to investigate the influence of their particle size, zeta potential and composition on hair treatment efficacy.

Coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils, alone or in combination, were loaded into nanoemulsions by high-pressure homogenization method (HPH). The mean particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were measured by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) method, and a stability test was performed for five months. A sensorial screening evaluation performed by the analyst and the combing test using Dia-Stron^® instrumentation were applied on hair tresses treated by these nanoemulsions.

The use of different plant oils for nanoemulsion resulted in distinct final particle sizes and zeta potential. However, results suggested no significant difference between them in hair tresses combing efficacy compared by Dia-Stron^® instrument testing. Moreover, the plant-loaded nanoemulsions with increased concentration of cationic surfactant indicated a 50% reduction in combing force using this device when compared to control, in addition to better sensory results by screening test compared to other nanoemulsions and control.

The composition of plant oils, particle size or zeta potential of the prepared nanoemulsions does not seem to significantly influence hair performance. Thus, we suggest that finding the right balance between cationic surfactant and plant oils may be the most appropriate path to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment.