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Assessment of fluency dynamics in climbing
Ludovic Seifert1, Guillaume Hacques1, Rémi Rivet2
1Faculty of Sport Sciences, CETAPS EA3832, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont Saint Aignan, France.
Sports Biomechanics
|October 29, 2020
Summary
Researchers studied climbing fluency dynamics using an instrumented holds system. Fastest climbers at difficult sections spent less time on each hold, revealing distinct fluency profiles.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Biomechanics
- Motor Control
Background:
- Climbing performance is influenced by movement efficiency.
- Quantifying climbing fluency dynamics is crucial for training optimization.
- Instrumented feedback systems can enhance coaching in climbing.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate climbing fluency dynamics using an instrumented holds system.
- To analyze hold-by-hold contact time in competitive lead climbing.
- To identify distinct climbing fluency profiles based on performance data.
Main Methods:
- Utilized an instrumented holds system to measure contact time on 41 holds.
- Analyzed data from 34 competitive climbers completing a 6b (French scale) lead climbing route.
- Applied hierarchical cluster analysis to group climbers based on total contact time.
Main Results:
- Identified four distinct profiles of climbing fluency dynamics.
- Fastest climbers at crux points exhibited the shortest contact times.
- The system provided instantaneous feedback on inter-limb fluency and motor organization.
Conclusions:
- Climbing fluency can be categorized into distinct profiles.
- Minimizing contact time at crux points correlates with faster overall climbing.
- The instrumented holds system offers valuable insights for climbing coaching and technique analysis.
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