Quantifying the impact of braiding and combing on the integrity of natural African hair

Afro hair breakage is most commonly attributed to grooming practices such as braiding, hair extensions and weaves, both for chemically treated hair and natural Afro hair. These grooming practices are also frequently associated with traction alopecia in clinical studies. However, there is little to no quantitative scientific data on the surface and internal hair fibre damage caused by grooming, including combing, on Afro hair.

Qualitative and quantitative techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, cuticle cohesion and tensile testing were used to determine the effects of frequent braiding on the integrity of female Afro hair in 15 frequent braiders and 15 occasional braiders (control group) in Johannesburg, South Africa. Frequent braiders were women who braided more than 8 times per year, while occasional braiders typically limit braiding to only twice 2 per year. The severity of traction alopecia was quantified in both groups using the standard Marginal Traction Alopecia Scoring system. Surface damage on naturally curly Afro hair, that was combed but not braided, was assessed as another hairstyle option.

All measurements showed a relationship between surface and internal hair fibre damage and braiding frequency. Frequent braiders had thinner hair, with more cuticle damage as shown by SEM and cuticle cohesion assessments. Their hair fibres were also significantly weaker (p < 0.05), as shown by the tensile testing. In addition, they also had higher traction alopecia severity scores. In the combing impact assessment, a linear trend was observed between surface hair fibre damage and the number of combing strokes. Cuticle damage from 480 combing strokes was more severe than that from frequent braiding.

Frequent braiding and combing damage natural Afro hair. Quantification of damage caused by different grooming practices identifies a need to develop products that could help mitigate specific hair damage associated with grooming practices. The degree of damage and subsequent hair loss could also be minimized by education on best braiding practices to protect the hair fibre and avoid hair follicle miniaturization caused by high traction hairstyles.