Psychopathology in mountaineering--mental disturbances under high-altitude stress

In the years 1960-1985 psychiatric and psychological research was conducted among a group of 80 Polish alpinists. Experimental research was conducted during the expeditions to the Hindu Kush mountains and to the Andes (1971, 1973-74, 1979, 1985). The aim of the research was to describe the personality of the alpinists, their motivation, as well as mental disturbances caused by staying at high altitudes. On the basis of an interview and the Cattell personality questionnaire, two types of personality were distinguished: the schizoid-psychasthenic type (53 persons, i.e. 66%) and the asthenic-neurotic type (23 persons, i.e. 30%). As regards the motivation for mountain climbing, situational and personality factors were described, among them, the need to experience "powerful situations" and compensating for an inferiority complex. A so called integrational fear which mobilizes the psychophysical capabilities to overcome the hardships of the climb, was described as characteristic of the alpinists. Depending on the altitude and the duration of one's stay at it, the mental disturbances, in most cases took on the form of the neurasthenic syndrome (asthenic or sthenic) at low altitudes (3000-4000 m), the cyclothymic syndrome at medium altitudes (4000-5000 m), and the acute organic brain syndrome at high altitudes (above 7000 m). In 24 (35%) cases, there occurred psychotic disturbances with profound disturbances of consciousness and orientation. These states were accompanied by symptoms of high-altitude deterioration with a break-down in the physical condition, disturbances in the hydro-electrolyte equilibrium, and a considerable loss of bodily weight.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)