Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers

Finger flexor pulley system injuries are the most common overuse injury in rock climbers. These injuries occur rarely outside of rock climbing, owing to the sport's unique biomechanical demands on the finger. As rock climbing continues to grow and earn recognition as a mainstream sport, an understanding of how to diagnose and treat these injuries also has become important. Our purpose is to describe current concepts in anatomy, biomechanics, clinical evaluation, imaging, prevention, and treatment strategies relating to finger flexor pulley system injuries. Our literature search was performed on PubMed with MeSH terms and keywords as subject headings to meet the objectives of this review. The "crimp grip" used in rock climbing is the mechanism for these injuries. The A2, A3, and A4 pulleys are at the highest risk of injury, especially when loaded eccentrically. Physical examination may reveal clinical "bowstringing," defined as the volar displacement of the flexor tendons from the phalanges; however, imaging is required for characterization of the underlying injury. Ultrasound is highly sensitive and specific for diagnosis and is recommended as the initial imaging technique of choice. Magnetic resonance imaging is recommended as an additional imaging study if ultrasound is inconclusive. Properly warming up increases the amount of physiologic bowstringing and is thought to prevent injury from occurring. Pulley injuries may be classified as grade I through IV. Conservative treatment, including immobilization, the H-tape method, and the use of a protective pulley splint, is recommended for grade I to III injuries. Surgical repair is reserved for grade IV injuries that are not amenable to conservative treatment.