Analytical method development and percutaneous absorption of propylidene phthalide, a cosmetic ingredient

Propylidene phthalide (PP) is a cosmetic ingredient used in the fragrance industry and regulated for the limited content of 0.01% in cosmetic products in Korea. The aim of this study was to determine PP dermal absorption rate according to the Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) guidelines using in vitro Franz diffusion system. An analytical method in assessing PP was developed through method validation using LC-MS/MS. Linearity, precision, and accuracy were acceptable based upon MFDS guidelines. The stability of PP in receptor fluid (50% ethanol) at 32°C was sufficient up to 24 hr. Cream formulation (o/w) was topically applied to excised rat skin at a dose of 113 mg/cm² containing 0.7% PP. The time points for receptor fluid collection were set at 0, 1, 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 hr. After 24 hr, the remaining formulation on the skin and stratum corneum (SC) were collected through swabbing with an alcohol cotton and tape stripping, respectively. The collected samples (swabbed-remained formulation, SC, and skin) were extracted using acetonitrile for 24 hr. Total dermal absorption rate of PP was approximately 24% in cream formulation. These findings may be used for further exposure evaluation of PP in human consumers.