An objective skin-type classification based on non-invasive biophysical parameters

Despite the invention of various non-invasive bioengineering tools, skin-type analysis has largely been based on subjective assessments. However, advancements in the functional cosmetic industry and artificial intelligence-assisted dermatology are creating a greater demand for an objective skin-type classification system.

To propose an objective skin-type classification system solely based on non-invasive, bioengineering devices; provide reference values applicable to the Korean population; and compare our reference values with those of published studies.

Biophysical parameter measurements were obtained from the 2018 International Skin Characteristics Data Bank Project conducted by the Foundation of Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute. The participants were 434 healthy South Korean adults. Each participant was assessed using eight bioengineering devices (Tewameter^® , pH-meter^® , Corneometer^® , Sebumeter^® , Cutometer^® , Spectrophotometer^® , PRIMOS^® lite, and Janus^® ). The measurements were divided into tertiles to determine reference points.

Our objective skin-type classification consists of five main categories (sensitivity, hydration, oiliness, elasticity, and skin tone) and five corresponding subcategories (erythema, roughness, pores, wrinkles, and pigmentation, respectively). Each skin type was assigned based on the reference point of the biophysical parameter, which was established as the tertile value associated with 'unfavourable' skin characteristics. Individuals were categorized as having sensitive skin when the TEWL scores were over 18.0 g/m² /h or the pH was over 5.45; dehydrated skin when the corneometric value measured below 47.17 A.U.; oily skin when the sebumetric value exceeded 70 μg/cm² ; and loose skin when the cutometric R² value was below 0.68 E/mm.

This study is the first to provide a comprehensive skin-type classification system based solely on non-invasive biophysical parameters. As measurement data accumulate, the reference points will progress to become more accurate, and they will be subdivided according to gender, age, and ethnic group. Therefore, our classification system serves as a basis for artificial intelligence-based skin-type analysis.