Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities

Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations.

A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities.

These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used.

There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.