How important is V̇O₂max when climbing Mt. Everest (8,849 m)?

Area of Science:

• Physiology
• Altitude Medicine
• Sports Science

Background:

• Maximal oxygen uptake (V̇O2max) decreases with altitude, impacting endurance performance.
• Physiological feasibility of high-altitude expeditions without supplemental oxygen was historically debated.
• Previous studies often overlooked individual sea-level V̇O2max in altitude research.

Purpose of the Study:

• To analyze the decline in V̇O2max at extreme altitudes up to 8849m.
• To investigate the influence of individual sea-level V̇O2max on high-altitude performance.
• To determine factors enabling unsupplemented ascents of extreme altitudes.

Main Methods:

• Review of existing studies on V̇O2max at various altitudes.
• Analysis of case observations from high-altitude expeditions.
• Discussion of physiological responses to extreme altitude based on individual V̇O2max.

Main Results:

• V̇O2max declines significantly with increasing altitude.
• Individual sea-level V̇O2max is a critical determinant of high-altitude V̇O2max.
• Moderate decline in oxygen saturation and V̇O2max is observed with proper acclimatization.

Conclusions:

• A high sea-level V̇O2max is essential for unsupplemented high-altitude mountaineering.
• Effective acclimatization and ascent strategies mitigate V̇O2max decline.
• Certain individuals can summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen due to these factors.