Common Cosmetic Compounds Can Reduce Air Pollution-Induced Oxidative Stress and Pro-Inflammatory Response in the Skin

Constantly increasing air pollution (AP) poses a concern affecting not only our health but also our skin. A typical manifestation of the skin damage induced by AP is its premature aging, irritation, skin barrier impairment, pigmentation disorders, and development or exacerbation of various skin diseases. For these reasons, it is crucial to protect the skin from the negative effects of AP. In this study, we evaluated the ability of some compounds commonly used in dermatological or cosmetic preparations with various biological activities to reduce AP-induced skin damage.

We established a new experimental model using porcine skin explants exposed to cigarette smoke (CS) in which we determined the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the stratum corneum, skin barrier lipids peroxidation, and gene expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin 6 in the epidermis. Then, we tested several polysaccharides and their derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate (SH) of different molecular weight (MW, 1.6 MDa, 300 kDa, 15 kDa, 5 kDa), yeast glucomannan, schizophyllan, and carboxymethyl β-glucan, then vitamin C derivative sodium ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide, and D-panthenol for their ability to prevent CS-induced skin damage. For the evaluation and comparison of their mechanism of action, film-forming effect was determined by TEWL and gloss measurements and the antioxidant properties were assessed by DPPH assay.

In the skin samples exposed to CS, we observed significant negative changes such as the presence of large amount of ROS in the stratum corneum, high level of skin barrier lipids peroxidation and upregulated IL6 gene expression. Pretreatment of the skin samples with all the tested substances significantly prevented CS-induced skin damage. The most effective were high MW SH probably due to its best film-forming effect and sodium ascorbyl phosphate with the best antioxidant properties.

AP leads to a significant skin damage which can be effectively prevented using some conventional cosmetic and dermatological ingredients with various mechanisms of action.