Preparation and Evaluation of Pluronic Lecithin Organogels in Cosmetics

This study was performed to investigate the application of pluronic lecithin organogel (PLO gel) in cosmetics as a topical drug delivery system. PLO gel was known as transdermal drug delivery systems. It has a very interesting system, owing to their biocompatibility; their amphiphilic nature, facilitating dissolution of various drug classes; and their permeation enhancement properties. We realized that PLO gel has a critical shortcoming of flowability at low temperatures to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. To improve this drawback, this study aimed to find an appropriate quantity of three main compositions of PLO gel, including aqueous phase (poloxamer 407 and water), polyol phase (PEG-400), and oil phase (lecithin and oil), and applied an experimental design using the response surface methodology (RSM). We assessed the elapsed time change by temperature in each PLO gel formulation, observed the morphology of PLO gel using field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM), and determined the gelation point by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Rheology measurements to assess viscoelastic properties were determined by using a rheometer, and skin permeation efficiency was assessed by diffusion system. It was confirmed that three main factors (hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-400, and poloxamer 407) of PLO gel should be balanced without flowability even in cold temperature. Through the RSM, it was assumed that the most effective ingredient was PEG-400 at PLO gel formulation and physical properties. The PLO gel formulation (hydrogenated lecithin 5.0%, PEG-400 20.0%, and poloxamer 407 15.0%) was evaluated as the most suitable formulation for use in cosmetics due to its viscosity and elasticity results. The shape was observed through FE-SEM, and it was confirmed that the PLO gel forms a polymeric bicontinuous microemulsion structure. Regarding the applicability of PLO gel in cosmetics, we verified that PLO gel can be used in a delivery system for active substances. The study findings suggest that PLO gel can be used as one of the ingredients in cosmetic formulations.