Clinical study of Asian skin changes after application of a sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract

Asian skin undergoing chronological aging, accumulates signs of photoaging mediated by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although sunscreens are effective in preventing signs of photoaging, polyphenol-rich extracts, for example, grape seed extract (GSE) can provide additional protection through the broad spectrum of biological activities.

To access the effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation containing GSE as an important cosmetic ingredient for the improvement of age-related changes in Asian skin using noninvasive evaluation techniques.

Noninvasive methods were used to assess changes in the biophysical properties corresponding to aging signs including melanin and erythema indices, color parameters of the CIE L*a*b* system, elasticity, and hydration of the forearm skin before and after applying the sunscreen with GSE. In addition, to confirm the effectiveness of the tested product, we compared it with benchmark sunscreen, and a cream base containing either GSE or UV filters.

Twice-daily application of sunscreen containing 3% GSE significantly reduced the level of melanin and erythema and improved overall skin tone. The hydration was drastically increased after 3 h of wearing formulation and was maintained relatively high for 5 h. Skin elasticity parameters, including Young's modulus, retraction time, and viscoelasticity, improved in participants of all age categories (35-59 years). Moreover, sunscreen with GSE, as acclaimed by participants, improved overall skin appearance.

The balancing potential of GSE on the skin, combined with the photoprotective properties of UV filters demonstrated an added value as an anti-aging agent and proved efficacy for both photo- and chronologically-aged Asian skin.