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Updated: Sep 21, 2025

Resolving Water, Proteins, and Lipids from In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectra of Stratum Corneum through a Chemometric Approach
Published on: September 26, 2019
Confocal Raman spectroscopy is suitable to assess hair cleansing-derived skin dryness on human scalp
Ghaith Kourbaj1, Stephan Bielfeldt1, Iryna Kruse1
1proderm GmbH, Hamburg, Germany.
Background:
The purpose of this pilot study was to provide information about the washout-dependent depletion of important skin components in the horny layer of the scalp. They were taken as markers for scalp drying effects of cosmetic cleansing products and were measured directly in vivo.
Method:
In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to measure the depletion of the total natural moisturizing factor (total NMF) and some of its components (urea and lactic acid) as well as a fraction of stratum corneum lipids, after repeated washing with a standard shampoo on the human scalp.
Results:
The measurements showed a reduction in the amount of NMF and lipids of the stratum corneum caused by repeated shampooing.
Conclusion:
Confocal Raman spectroscopy is an innovative technology that can be used successfully in vivo on the hairy scalp. The loss of the most important skin components caused by hair washing can be quantified directly with this technology. The method is valuable to support the development cosmetic cleansing products, as it is suitable to directly compare the effects of different product candidates on the human scalp in a most realistic way.
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