Influence of the emulsifier on nanostructure and clinical application of liquid crystalline emulsions

Liquid crystals are appealing in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields due to their unique structures that combine the properties of both liquid and solid states. Forming an emulsion into liquid crystals can be affected by a number of factors, including the emulsion composition and temperature. Changing the types and concentrations of surfactants could be another factor that affects liquid crystals. Currently, most liquid crystal research focuses on the nanostructure of liquid crystal systems without evaluating the efficacy of liquid crystals clinically. In this study, liquid crystalline emulsions made from camellia seed oil with four different surfactants (Olivem 1000, Polyaquol-2W, Nikkomulese LC, and Lecinol S-10 with Tween 80) were created. The liquid crystal emulsions were formulated in the form of oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions with Camellia oleifera seed oil serving as the main ingredient in the oil phase (10% w/w). All formulations exhibited liquid crystal characteristics with lamellar structures as determined by the polarized light microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering with supporting data of the nanostructure from wide-angle X-ray scattering and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). They all showed good stability under normal (room temperature) and accelerated conditions (4 °C and 40 °C) in long-term storage (6 months). Using the reconstructed human epidermis as a skin model, all formulations did not cause skin irritation. In the clinical trial, all formulations were able to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase skin hydration immediately after application. This lasted at least 10 h. All formulations showed distinct Maltese crosses under the polarized light microscope with a positive result for liquid crystals in wide angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) and small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) methods. Moreover, among all formulations tested, Formulation D, which contained Lecinol S-10 and Tween 80 as emulsifiers, showed the most robust interaction between the surfactant and water molecules in the lamellar structure under DSC. The formulation was stable in long-term normal and accelerated conditions. Above all, Formulation D, which was formulated with Lecinol S-10 with Tween 80, had the best clinical result, was nonirritating to the skin, and can be used as a cream base in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical sectors.