Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and...

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC₅₀ values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.