Toxicity evaluation of Pinus radiata D.Don bark wax for potential cosmetic application

Radiata pine bark is a widely available organic waste, requiring alternative uses due to its environmental impact on soil, fauna, and forest fires. Pine bark waxes could be used as cosmetic substitutes, but their toxicity requires evaluation since pine bark may contain toxic substances or xenobiotics, depending on the extraction process. This study evaluates the toxicity of radiata pine bark waxes obtained through various extraction methods on human skin cells grown in vitro. The assessment includes using XTT to evaluate mitochondrial activity, violet crystal dye to assess cell membrane integrity, and ApoTox-Glo triple assay to measure cytotoxicity, viability, and apoptosis signals. Pine bark waxes extracted via T3 (acid hydrolysis and petroleum ether incubation) and T9 (saturated steam cycle, alkaline hydrolysis, and petroleum ether incubation) exhibit non-toxicity up to 2% concentration, making them a potential substitute for petroleum-based cosmetic materials. Integrating the forestry and cosmetic industries through pine bark wax production under circular economy principles could promote development while replacing petroleum-based materials. Extraction methodology affects pine bark wax toxicity in human skin cells due to the retention of xenobiotic compounds including methyl 4-ketohex-5-enoate; 1-naphthalenol; dioctyl adipate; eicosanebioic acid dimethyl ester; among others. Future research will investigate whether the extraction methodology alters the molecular structure of the bark, affecting the release of toxic compounds in the wax mixture.