Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids

Selective removal of stratum corneum lipids following applications of acetone/ether to the human forearm for extremely prolonged periods of 5-20 min induced an enduring (more than 4 days), chapped and scaly appearance of the skin which was accompanied by a significant decrease in the water-holding properties of the stratum corneum. In order to further elucidate the significance of lipids in the water-holding properties, lipids, which were extracted as sebaceous-rich lipids (SL) for the first 10-min acetone/ether treatment and as stratum corneum lipids (SCL) for the additional 30-min treatment, were topically applied daily on lipid-depleted forearm skin which had been pretreated with acetone/ether for 40 min. Two daily applications of the SCL which were solubilized in squalane containing 1% alpha-monomethyl heptadecyl glyceryl ether (GE) caused a significant increase of conductance, accompanied by a marked improvement in the level of scaling as compared with nontreatment or GE/squalane base, whereas the SL in the GE/squalane base did not exhibit any significant recovery in either conductance value or scaling. To clarify which components of the SCL are primarily responsible for the observed recovery of the water-holding properties, chromatographically separated fractions of the SCL were also topically applied in the same manner for 2 successive days. Out of the following separated fractions: cholesterol, cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, glycolipids, and ceramide, 2 daily topical applications of ceramide fraction induced a significant and the highest increase in the conductance value as compared with GE/squalane base. Furthermore, glycolipids and cholesterol fractions also exhibited a significant recovery when compared with no application at all. In contrast, free fatty acid and cholesterol ester fractions did not indicate any significant increase in the conductance value. These findings strengthen the hypothesis that structural lipids present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum, especially ceramide, play a critical role in the water-holding properties of the stratum corneum.