Motion Analysis of the Wrist and Finger Joints in Sport Climbing

Climbing is a fast-growing sport, with one of the most common injuries being a rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulley. The strain on pulleys increases as finger joints flex. However, to our knowledge, no study has conducted a kinematic analysis of climbers' fingers. Thus, this study aimed to examine finger kinematics during typical climbing tasks. Eleven elite climbers performed a sequence of four climbing moves, which were recorded by an optical motion capture system. Participants used crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand grips for three trials each, with the fourth condition involving campusing using any grip except crimp. Mean proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) flexion during the holding phase was 87° (SD 12°), 70° (14°) and 39° (27°) for the crimp, half-crimp and open-hand grip, respectively. Hence, inter-individual PIP flexion ranges overlap between different gripping conditions. Two different movement patterns emerged in the open-hand grip, possibly influenced by the use of the little finger, leading to varying degrees of flexion in the middle and ring fingers. Avoiding little finger usage in the open-hand grip may reduce load during pulley rupture rehabilitation. The implications of PIP joint angle variability on individual pulley injury risk or prevention warrant further investigation. Motion capture proved effective for understanding finger kinematics during climbing and could guide future studies on pulley injury risk factors.