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Updated: Jun 25, 2025

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Phase Behavior of Charged Vesicles Under Symmetric and Asymmetric Solution Conditions Monitored with Fluorescence Microscopy
Published on: October 24, 2017
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Controlling the formation of ionic complex vesicles through double-tailed surfactants
1Shiseido Co., Ltd., MIRAI Technology Institute, Yokohama, Japan.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|May 28, 2024
Summary
Ionic complex vesicles formed from cationic and anionic surfactants offer a stable, high-texture alternative to liposomes in cosmetic lotions. These novel vesicles provide excellent skin adhesion and are stable across various temperatures.
Area of Science:
- Materials Science: Development of novel vesicular delivery systems for cosmetic applications.
- Colloid and Surface Chemistry: Investigation of ionic complex formation between surfactants.
Background:
- Liposomes are widely used in cosmetics but are prone to oxidative degradation and stability issues.
- Hydrogenated phospholipids improve stability but present challenges due to high phase transition temperatures.
- Cationic surfactants typically form vesicles but have limited use in skincare beyond specific emulsion types.
Purpose of the Study:
- To develop stable, high-performance vesicles for cosmetic applications by overcoming limitations of traditional liposomes.
- To create ionic complex vesicles using double-tailed cationic and anionic surfactants as a liposome alternative.
Main Methods:
- Synthesis and characterization of ionic complex vesicles using distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC) and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL).
- Phase diagram determination using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and X-ray scattering (SWAXS).
- Vesicle morphology confirmed via cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM).
- In vivo skin adsorption evaluated using polarized infrared external reflection (PIR-ER).
- Cosmetic lotion formulation and stability testing, with vesicle size analyzed by dynamic light scattering (DLS).
Main Results:
- Stable multi-lamellar vesicles (<100 nm diameter) were formed at a DLGL:DSAC molar ratio of 6:4.
- Cryo-TEM confirmed vesicle formation, and PIR-ER demonstrated perpendicular orientation on skin.
- A stable cosmetic lotion containing 63.2 nm vesicles was formulated, showing stability for over one month at varied temperatures (0-50°C).
Conclusions:
- Ionic complex vesicles are easily produced via a coagulation process.
- The observed skin adsorption structure suggests excellent textural properties comparable to liposome-based lotions.
- These novel ionic complex vesicles represent a viable alternative to traditional liposomes in cosmetic formulations.
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