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Innovative Alkanediol-Based Eutectic Solvents for Extracting/Pre-Formulating Dermatologically Valuable Free Fatty
Laura Wils1, Mervé Yagmur1, Nicolas Bellin2
1UR 7502 SIMBA, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, France.
Marine Drugs
|June 26, 2024
Summary
Microalgae extraction cakes were valorized using natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) to yield polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) for cosmetics. These PUFA extracts showed good skin safety and inhibited harmful bacteria like Staphylococcus while preserving beneficial ones.
Area of Science:
- Biotechnology
- Cosmetic Science
- Green Chemistry
Background:
- Microalgae cultivation for phycobiliproteins produces by-products like extraction cakes.
- These cakes are rich in valuable compounds, including polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), suitable for cosmetic applications.
- Valorization of these by-products aligns with sustainable and circular economy principles.
Purpose of the Study:
- To valorize microalgae extraction cakes by extracting PUFA using novel natural hydrophobic deep eutectic solvents (NaDES).
- To evaluate the safety and antimicrobial properties of the obtained extracts and NaDES for cosmetic use.
- To explore the potential of NaDES-based extracts in managing cutaneous dysbiosis.
Main Methods:
- Two microalgae cakes (Spirulina and Porphyridium cruentum) were used.
- Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) based on alkanediols and fatty acids were developed and screened.
- Ultrasound-assisted extraction and dual asymmetric centrifugation were employed for PUFA extraction.
- In vitro assays assessed epidermal keratinocyte viability and effects on cutaneous bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus, S. epidermidis, Corynebacterium xerosis, Cutibacterium acnes).
Main Results:
- The most effective NaDES were mixtures of 1,3-propanediol with octanoic acid or octanoic and decanoic acids.
- Dual asymmetric centrifugation yielded extracts with high PUFA content (65–220 mg/g dry matter).
- Extracts and NaDES demonstrated good safety for epidermal keratinocytes (>80% viability at 200 µg/mL).
- Extracts significantly reduced the viability of Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis (>50% decrease) but preserved C. xerosis and C. acnes.
Conclusions:
- Alkanediol-based NaDES are effective for valorizing microalgae extraction cakes into PUFA-rich cosmetic ingredients.
- The extracts exhibit favorable safety profiles and selective antimicrobial activity against pathogenic staphylococci.
- This approach offers a sustainable strategy for managing cutaneous dysbiosis by combining active vectors (NaDES) and growth-regulating extracts.
