Functional Nanostructured Lipid Carrier-Enriched Hydrogels Tailored to Repair Damaged Epidermal Barrier

In this study, a functional nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs)-based hydrogel was developed to repair the damaged epidermal skin barrier. NLCs were prepared via a high-energy approach, using argan oil and beeswax as liquid and solid lipids, respectively, and were loaded with ceramides and cholesterol at a physiologically relevant ratio, acting as structural and functional compounds. Employing a series of surfactants and optimizing the preparation conditions, NLCs of 215.5 ± 0.9 nm in size and a negative zeta potential of -42.7 ± 0.9 were obtained, showing acceptable physical and microbial stability. Solid state characterization by differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction revealed the formation of imperfect crystal NLC-type. The optimized NLC dispersion was loaded into the gel based on sodium hyaluronate and xanthan gum. The gels obtained presented a shear thinning and thixotropic behavior, which is suitable for dermal application. Incorporating NLCs enhanced the rheological, viscoelastic, and textural properties of the gel formed while retaining the suitable spreadability required for comfortable application and patient compliance. The NLC-loaded gel presented a noticeable occlusion effect in vitro. It provided 2.8-fold higher skin hydration levels on the ex vivo porcine ear model than the NLC-free gel, showing a potential to repair the damaged epidermal barrier and nourish the skin actively.