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Updated: Jun 18, 2025

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing
Published on: February 13, 2018
Unveiling the global influence of tropical cyclones on extreme waves approaching coastal areas
Swen Jullien1, Jérôme Aucan2, Elodie Kestenare3
1Univ Brest, Ifremer, CNRS, IRD, LOPS, F-29280, Plouzané, France. swen.jullien@ifremer.fr.
Abstract:
Tropical and extra-tropical storms generate extreme waves, impacting both nearby and remote regions through swell propagation. Despite their devastating effects in tropical areas, the contribution of tropical cyclones (TCs) to global wave-induced coastal risk remains unknown. Here, we enable a quantitative assessment of TC's role in extreme waves approaching global coastlines, by designing twin oceanic wave simulations with and without realistic TC wind forcing. We find that TCs substantially contribute to extreme breaking heights in tropical regions (35-50% on average), reaching 100% in high-density TC areas like the North Pacific. TCs also impact remote TC-free regions, such as the equatorial Pacific experiencing in average 30% of its extreme wave events due to TCs. Interannual variability amplifies TC-induced wave hazards, notably during El Niño in the Central Pacific, and La Niña in the South China Sea, Caribbean Arc, and South Indian Ocean coastlines. This research offers critical insights for global risk management and preparedness.
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