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QbD Approach in Cosmetic Cleansers Research: The Development of a Moisturizing Cleansing Foam Focusing on Thickener,
Cătălina Bogdan1, Diana Antonia Safta1, Sonia Iurian2
1Department of Dermopharmacy and Cosmetics, Faculty of Pharmacy, "Iuliu Hațieganu" University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 12 I. Creangă St., 400010 Cluj-Napoca, Romania.
Abstract:
Cleansing products, particularly innovative cosmetic foams, must efficiently remove impurities with minimal impact on the skin barrier and have a favorable sensory profile. The choice of product ingredients is crucial to ensure the optimal characteristics. The current study aims to provide a comprehensive framework for understanding the variability in the characteristics of a cleansing foam to achieve desired properties. The novelty of this study lies in the combination of ingredients for their potential synergistic and complementary effects in cleansing dry skin, as well as the application of Quality by Design (QbD) elements to develop and optimize the formulation of cleansing foam. The effects of varying the concentration of mild surfactants, polyols, and gel-forming agents on the properties of the gels and of the generated foams were studied. Significant influences of the formulation factors were observed: an increased ratio of xanthan gum positively impacted the texture properties of the gel, whereas higher concentrations of surfactants had a negative impact on these parameters. Additionally, increasing the polyols ratio was found to negatively influence the foaming property and stability of the foam. The study established an optimal formulation of a cleansing foam with a ratio of 0.45% xanthan gum, 26.19% surfactants and 2.16% polyols to be used for dry skin hygiene.
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