Using satellite-derived nearshore breaker information to study nearshore geomorphology and hydrodynamic environment

Studying nearshore breakers contributes to the understanding of nearshore geomorphology and hydrodynamic environment, which is crucial for coastal engineering design, coastal erosion protection, and ensuring the safety of surfers and swimmers. However, previous studies on nearshore breakers have been hindered by the fickle nature of the nearshore environment and the challenges of in-situ measurements. This study utilized 4232 satellite images of five beaches, combined with simulated tidal heights, measured beach profiles, and wave information, to identify and analyze nearshore breakers. The results indicate that satellite images with higher resolution and quality, unshielded beaches with gentle slopes, and powerful wave conditions are favorable for the recognition of nearshore breakers in satellite imagery. The satellite-derived breaker information shows strong correlations with surf zone geomorphology, allowing for the inversion of beach profile shape in areas where in-situ measurements are difficult and costly. Additionally, the satellite-derived breaker information correlates strongly with incident wave heights, enabling the inversion of historical wave information and the estimation of the breaker index, an important parameter for coastal engineering design. Considering the widespread availability and extensive coverage of satellite imagery, this study not only holds great theoretical value but also has promising application prospects for various fields, including coastal engineering, beach management, and ocean safety.