An Exploration of Alkaline Degumming in the Printing and Dyeing Process of Silk Georgette

Alkali printing was one of the traditional techniques employed for printing on silk georgette in ancient China. This study investigates two degumming methods in alkaline printing processes, namely alkaline boiling and alkaline steaming, based on the principles of Tang Dynasty alkaline printing techniques. The effects of slaked lime concentration, steam temperature, and steam duration on the degumming rate of silk georgette are studied. Alkaline boiling is found to be rapid and effective, achieving a degumming rate of 27% at 80 °C in 30 min, whereas alkaline steaming requires a prolonged process with a maximum degumming rate of less than 20% before the water reaches its boiling point. Additionally, the differences in dyeing effects at various degumming rates, and the variations in pattern clarity and detail under alkaline steaming, were compared. Although both degumming methods can achieve the desired amount of degumming rate through process control, alkaline steaming allows for integration with methods like screen printing and rotary printing, offering better control over pattern freedom and detail. The combination of these two processes can further expand the artistic expression and application of traditional alkaline printing techniques in contemporary silk degumming printing.