Deposition of Nanometric Polymer-Surfactant Complexes Formed by Cationic Dextran: A Path to Sustainable Formulations

The home and personal care industry is evolving toward more sustainable and environmentally friendly ingredients. Rinse-off personal care products rely on formation of polymer-surfactant complexes to drive deposition of benefit agents (e.g., conditioning oils, fragrances, etc.) onto the skin or hair. The most used natural polymers for this purpose are cationic guar (catGuar) and cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose (catHEC), and the complexation of these polymers with surfactants has been rigorously characterized. Various gaps still exist with these polymers, specifically low biodegradation and undesirable aquatic toxicity profiles. Modified dextran offers an exciting solution as a biodegradable polysaccharide with a high natural origin content. This paper aims to compare the morphology of polymer-surfactant complexes formed between a cationic dextran (catDex) polymer with mixtures of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CapB) to the morphologies of complexes formed between catGuar or catHEC and the same surfactants. Solutions were designed to mimic industrially relevant shampoos. Through a suite of complementary techniques, unique nanometric sized complexes were observed to form between catDex-SLES/CapB compared to the widely reported micrometer-sized coacervates (liquid-liquid phase separation) or precipitates (liquid-solid) formed in catHEC or catGuar-SLES systems. Using a quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation, the adsorption behavior of the catDex-SLES/CapB is characterized on a silica-coated sensor. The results show deposition throughout the dilution regime for catDex-SLES/CapB where the highest deposition is recorded with the undiluted rinsing formulation. This contrasts with catHEC-SLES/CapB and catGuar-SLES/CapB where the highest deposition is recorded in phase-separated regimes. This result was extended to performance testing on hair, confirming that the unique complexes formed by catDex can drive remarkably high levels of silicone deposition from rinse-off personal care products. This innovative approach of utilizing catDex-SLES/CapB complexes could enable design of more sustainable formulations that rely on polycation-surfactant nanocarriers.