Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Aging Without Side...

Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the most effective antiaging molecules, but it presents issues with photo-sensitivity and irritation. Alternatives are emerging, but have so far been less effective.

Here, we present a Silibum marianum extract (SME) as a retinol-like ingredient providing both safety and efficacy. SME was compared to the reference compound, retinol, and to the main alternative, bakuchiol.

Skin explants from a 58-year-old donor were treated with pure retinol (0.1%), bakuchiol (0.2%), or SME (0.8%). After 5 days, collagen and hyaluronic acid levels were analyzed. A placebo-controlled study involving 57 volunteers was also conducted, with products applied twice daily for 56 days. Results were measured by AEVA-HE and VISA.

Levels of collagen III were significantly increased by SME, by 23% and 16% compared to bakuchiol and retinol respectively. Compared to bakuchiol, SME treatment increased hyaluronic acid production by 36%. In clinical tests, SME had a significantly stronger anti-wrinkle effect than bakuchiol-reducing the number of wrinkles on the forehead by 21% and their circumference by 17%-producing effects similar to retinol, and better than bakuchiol. In the self-assessment, 43% of volunteers reported discomfort while using retinol compared to 0% for the SME formulation. By enhancing levels of collagen III-the youth collagen-and hyaluronic acid in the skin, SME paves the way for the maturation of collagen I fibrils and skin plumping.

With its stronger efficacy compared to bakuchiol and enhanced safety profile compared to retinol, SME may be the next generation of natural alternatives to retinoids.