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Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study.
Delaporte Adeline1, Grisel Michel1, Gore Ecaterina1
1Normandie Univ, URCOM UR 3221, Université Le Havre Normandi, Le Havre, France.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|December 24, 2024
Summary
Sustainable biopolymers successfully encapsulated Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) in microcapsules, enhancing cosmetic emulsion properties. These novel coacervates offer improved stability and texture for advanced skincare formulations.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Materials Science
- Biotechnology
Background:
- Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) is a vital lipophilic antioxidant for topical use.
- Challenges include its poor solubility and sensitivity to degradation in formulations.
- Encapsulation is key to overcoming these limitations for effective skincare.
Purpose of the Study:
- To develop sustainable, non-animal microcapsules for Vitamin E using complex coacervation.
- To evaluate the impact of these microcapsules on cosmetic emulsion properties and stability.
- To explore fungal chitosan and gum Arabic as biopolymer alternatives.
Main Methods:
- Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) was encapsulated using complex coacervation with fungal chitosan and gum Arabic.
- Microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions.
- Physicochemical properties and stability of emulsions with and without encapsulated Vitamin E were assessed.
Main Results:
- Successfully developed microcapsules with high encapsulation efficiency (87.0%) and loading (27.2%).
- Microcapsules demonstrated excellent thermal stability (up to 220°C) and improved storage stability for Vitamin E.
- Emulsions with microcapsules exhibited enhanced viscosity, viscoelasticity, and textural properties, remaining stable over time.
Conclusions:
- Fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates are a viable, sustainable alternative for encapsulating lipophilic actives.
- The developed microcapsules significantly improve the textural and rheological characteristics of cosmetic emulsions.
- This technology holds promise for creating advanced skincare products with enhanced functional benefits and stability.
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