Niacinamide and its impact on stratum corneum hydration and structure

Niacinamide (NIA) is widely used in skincare for its favorable safety profile, anti-aging effects, and proven clinical efficacy in treating various skin conditions. However, its direct impact on the hydration and molecular organization of the stratum corneum (SC), the primary skin barrier, remains unclear. This study examines how NIA influences the SC's lipid matrix organization, soft keratin structure, and water sorption behavior across varying relative humidity (RH) levels. Using small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction and dynamic vapor sorption measurements, we compared NIA-treated SC samples to untreated controls under different RHs. The main findings show that while NIA is non-hygroscopic, it enhances water uptake of the SC at high humidity (95% RH). At low humidity (60% RH), NIA swells the keratin monomer spacing, although the SC water content remains low, suggesting a plasticizing effect that could increase SC flexibility in dry conditions. NIA also modifies the diffraction intensities from the lipid matrix differently at 60% and 95% RH, implying that it interacts with the SC lipid matrix and influences the water distribution within the SC lipid and protein domains. These effects appear independent of the investigated dose regime, indicating a specific concentration threshold. Overall, NIA shows distinct interaction with keratin, swelling the spacing between keratin monomers in dry conditions, without acting as a traditional keratolytic agent.