Method Development for Determining β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) in Cosmetics Using m-PFC-HPLC

As a new cosmetic ingredient, NMN is widely used in cosmetics production, but due to the lack of a detection method, QC of related products cannot be achieved.

This study will develop a detection method for NMN in three matrixes (facial mask essence, emulsion, and cream) for QC of related cosmetics.

Given the high ester content in facial emulsions and creams, which can hinder the detection of trace substances, a novel multi-plug filtration clean-up (m-PFC) purification column packed with multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs) was employed to purify these matrixes. An HPLC method for NMN in three matrixes (facial mask essence, emulsion, and cream) was established. Methodological verification was conducted.

Results demonstrated a good linear relationship within a range of 5.0-500 μg/mL, with an LOQ of 5.0 mg/kg. The RSD of the precision experiment was less than 3%, and the RSD for six repeated experiments ranged from 1.2 to 5.3%, indicating the method's stability, reliability, and good repeatability. Recovery rates in the three cosmetic matrixes were between 93.9 and 109.4%, with an RSD below 3.7%. This method was applied to detect NMN content in seven cosmetics purchased from an e-commerce platform; NMN was not detected in some products claiming to contain NMN.

This method had the advantages of simple operation, high sensitivity, and good accuracy, and provides technical support for cosmetic regulation.

Through this study, we should raise awareness and supervision of NMN cosmetics by establishing relevant standards.