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Restoring Skin Hydration and Barrier Function: Mechanistic Insights Into Basic Emollients for Xerosis Cutis
Joachim W Fluhr1,2, Valérie Muguet3, Stéphanie Christen-Zaech4
1Institute of Allergology, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Berlin, Germany.
International Journal of Dermatology
|April 15, 2025
Summary
Basic emollients effectively manage dry skin (xerosis cutis) by restoring the skin barrier and improving water retention. These formulations, containing humectants and occlusives, are the standard for long-term dry skin care.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Skin Physiology
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Healthy skin maintains water balance via the stratum corneum (SC), which has hygroscopic compounds and a lipid barrier.
- Xerosis cutis (dry skin) results from impaired water retention and barrier function due to various factors.
- Basic emollients can restore skin hydration and barrier functions through their active constituents.
Purpose of the Study:
- To review the physiology of normal skin hydration.
- To discuss pathophysiological mechanisms of dry skin (xerosis cutis).
- To examine the functional effects of basic emollients in managing xerosis cutis.
Main Methods:
- Narrative review of scientific literature.
- Analysis of skin hydration physiology.
- Evaluation of emollient composition and function.
Main Results:
- The SC's hygroscopic compounds and lipid bilayer are crucial for skin hydration and preventing water loss.
- Dry skin involves reduced natural moisturizing factors or hydrolipids, caused by external, internal, or genetic factors.
- Basic emollients, with humectants (e.g., glycerol, urea) and occlusives (e.g., petrolatum), are effective in treating xerosis cutis.
Conclusions:
- Basic emollients are the standard of care for managing xerosis cutis.
- Emollients restore skin hydration and barrier function, crucial for conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyosis.
- Understanding skin physiology guides the effective use of emollients in dry skin management.
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