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Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: A Delphi consensus study
Gabriella V Alvarez1, Bianca Y Kang2, Alexandra M Richmond3
1Department of Health Services Research, The University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center, Houston, Texas.
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
|April 15, 2025
Summary
Cosmetic dermatologists reached a consensus on 23 key topical ingredients for common skin concerns like acne, wrinkles, and dark spots. This expert-backed list guides effective skincare ingredient selection.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Cosmetic Science
- Evidence-Based Medicine
Background:
- Ambiguity exists regarding preferred topical cosmetic ingredients for common skin concerns.
- Expert dermatologists' recommendations are crucial for guiding patient treatment.
- A systematic approach is needed to identify consensus ingredients.
Purpose of the Study:
- To identify topical cosmetic ingredients frequently recommended by dermatologists for specific skin concerns.
- To establish expert consensus on the most effective ingredients for fine lines, wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin.
Main Methods:
- Literature review to compile an extensive list of cosmetic ingredients.
- Expert panel review to narrow down the list to the most salient ingredients.
- Two rounds of Delphi consensus surveys with a panel of 62 dermatologists from 43 centers.
- Comparative literature review to assess supporting evidence for consensus ingredients.
Main Results:
- An initial list of 318 ingredients was reduced to 83 by an expert panel.
- Consensus was achieved for 23 key ingredients, including azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, mineral sunscreen, niacinamide, retinoids, salicylic acid, and vitamin C.
- The majority of consensus ingredients are supported by high-level evidence (Level 1b or 2b).
Conclusions:
- Expert cosmetic dermatologists have reached a consensus on the most useful topical ingredients for common dermatologic concerns.
- This consensus provides a valuable resource for both clinicians and patients seeking effective skincare solutions.
- The findings highlight the importance of evidence-based recommendations in cosmetic dermatology.
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