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Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: A Delphi consensus study
Gabriella V Alvarez1, Bianca Y Kang2, Alexandra M Richmond3
1Department of Health Services Research, The University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center, Houston, Texas.
Background:
There is ambiguity regarding the topical cosmetic ingredients preferred for common skin complaints.
Objective:
To determine which topical ingredients are frequently recommended by cosmetic dermatologists for fine lines and wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin.
Methods:
Literature review to develop long list of ingredients. Reduced by expert panel to most salient ingredients. Two rounds of Delphi consensus survey with second expert panel of clinicians and teachers. Comparative literature review to summarize published evidence supporting each consensus ingredient.
Results:
List of 318 ingredients reduced by a panel of 17 dermatologists to 83. Two Delphi rounds completed by 62 dermatologists at 43 centers. Consensus achieved for 23 ingredients, including the following: azelaic acid (acne, dark spots); benzoyl peroxide (acne, oily skin); glycolic acid (acne, dark spots); mineral sunscreen (fine lines and wrinkles, redness); niacinamide (redness, dark spots); retinoids (fine lines and wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores, oily skin); salicylic acid (acne, oily skin); vitamin C (fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots). Most consensus ingredients supported by level 1b or 2b evidence.
Limitations:
Some ingredients based on expert opinion.
Conclusion:
Consensus exists among expert cosmetic dermatologists regarding ingredients most useful for common dermatologic concerns.
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