Climbing performance in males: the importance of climbing-specific finger strength

Climbing is one of the fastest growing sports worldwide and with recent inclusion in the Olympic Games, and mounting number of indoor climbing gyms, its popularity is augmented. However, which physiological factors that predominantly determine climbing performance is unclear. Surprisingly, evidence of the importance of climbing-specific finger strength, intuitively the most obvious physiological component for climbing performance, is limited. This study sought to examine the relationship between distal finger digits isometric strength, assessed hanging from a 22 mm edge, and redpoint climbing and bouldering performance. Moreover, the aim was to contrast the results to less climbing-specific forearm flexor (handgrip) strength and multi-joint upper extremities (pullup) strength.

Nineteen males (26 ± 3 years; 181 ± 7 cm; 75.2 ± 7.7 kg) with a previous redpoint level from 6b + to 8c (French grading scale) participated in the study.

Very strong and strong associations, respectively, were shown between climbing-specific finger strength and bouldering (r = 0.89) and redpoint (r = 0.67, both p < 0.01) climbing performance. It also exhibited a strong correlation with campus boarding (r = 0.82, p < 0.01). Handgrip strength was moderately associated with redpoint (r = 0.54) and campus board (r = 0.47, both p < 0.05), but not bouldering performance (p > 0.05). Pullup-strength exhibited a moderate association with bouldering (r = 0.55) and campus boarding (r = 0.57, both p < 0.05), but not redpoint performance. Body weight associated moderately with bouldering (r = - 0.49) and campus boarding (r = - 0.51, both p < 0.05), whereas height did not (all p > 0.05).

Isometric distal finger strength appears to be the physiological factor most strongly related to bouldering and redpoint performance in males. However, it should be assessed in a climbing-specific exercise.