Stable and Functional Cosmetic Creams Enriched with Grape Stem Extract: A Sustainable Skincare Strategy

Area of Science:

• Cosmetic Science
• Natural Product Chemistry
• Sustainable Materials

Background:

• Growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients drives interest in winemaking by-products.
• Grape stem (GS) extract is an underexplored source of unique phenolic compounds.
• Existing research focuses on grape seeds and skins, leaving grape stems as a novel ingredient.

Purpose of the Study:

• To validate grape stem (GS) extract as a novel bioactive component in cosmetic cream formulations.
• To evaluate the impact of GS extract on physicochemical, textural, rheological, and biological properties of creams.
• To determine optimal GS extract concentrations for stable and effective cosmetic formulations.

Main Methods:

• Incorporation of GS extract into cosmetic creams at varying concentrations (0.33%–6.25%).
• Assessment of physicochemical properties, texture, rheology, and biological activity (antioxidant, antiaging, depigmenting).
• Accelerated stability testing (40 °C, 75% RH, 3 months) to evaluate formulation longevity.

Main Results:

• GS extract enhanced phenolic content, viscosity, firmness, and antioxidant capacity.
• Optimal stability and bioactivity were observed at 0.83%–1.64% GS extract concentrations.
• Higher concentrations led to decreased stability and antioxidant performance; significant elastase and tyrosinase inhibition was noted.

Conclusions:

• Grape stem extract can be effectively incorporated into cosmetic bases, preserving its biological functionality.
• Grape stems represent a valuable, untapped resource for sustainable cosmetic innovation.
• Formulation parameters for stable, effective creams using GS extract have been established, with potential for further optimization.