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Updated: Sep 9, 2025
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Determining the Contribution of the Energy Systems During Exercise
Published on: March 20, 2012
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Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport in Rock Climbers: A Narrative Review
Kenneth Tan1, Volker Schöffl2,3,4,5,6
1Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences, McGill University, Montreal, QC, Canada.
Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
|August 28, 2025
Summary
Relative energy deficiency in sport (REDs) affects rock climbers, impairing health and performance due to low energy availability. Early recognition and a multidisciplinary approach are crucial for managing REDs in this athletic population.
Area of Science:
- Sports Medicine
- Exercise Physiology
- Nutritional Science
Background:
- Rock climbing's popularity surged, leading to its Olympic inclusion.
- Relative energy deficiency in sport (REDs), previously the Female Athlete Triad, impacts athletes' health and performance.
- Low energy availability (LEA) is a key factor in REDs, presenting unique challenges for climbers.
Purpose of the Study:
- To comprehensively review REDs in rock climbing.
- To highlight current research and IOC recommendations.
- To emphasize the need for tailored nutritional strategies and holistic care.
Main Methods:
- Narrative review of existing literature, including research from 2024.
- Analysis of climbing physiology, anthropometry, and nutrition studies.
- Inclusion of data across youth, adult, able-bodied, and para-athlete populations.
Main Results:
- Many elite climbers exhibit low BMI and body fat, often with insufficient energy intake.
- REDs symptoms compromise health and performance in rock climbers.
- Current nutritional status and energy requirements are frequently unmet in high-level climbers.
Conclusions:
- A multidisciplinary team approach is vital for individualized dietary plans.
- Recognizing and diagnosing REDs in climbers requires holistic care strategies.
- Further research is needed to advance the understanding and management of REDs in rock climbing.
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