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Development of a lip colour chart across four ethnicities
Zoé Charton1, Héloïse Vergnaud1, Laurence Caisey2
1LVMH Recherche, CEECI, Neuilly-sur-Seine, France.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|September 11, 2025
Summary
Lip color diversity varies significantly across Asian, African American, Hispanic, and Caucasian women. This study developed a 53-tone lip color chart to guide inclusive cosmetic product development.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Facial Aesthetics
- Human Physiology
Background:
- Lips are crucial for social interaction and makeup, yet lip color data is scarce compared to skin.
- Understanding lip color diversity is essential for inclusive cosmetic product development.
Purpose of the Study:
- To assess lip color diversity across Asian, African American, Hispanic, and Caucasian ethnicities.
- To develop a standardized lip color chart for cosmetic industry reference.
Main Methods:
- Hyperspectral imaging (SpectraFace®) was used to measure natural lower lip color.
- 514 women aged 19-68 across the USA, France, and China participated.
- Lip color data was analyzed for diversity and inter-ethnic overlaps.
Main Results:
- Significant lip color variation was observed within and between the four ethnic groups.
- Substantial overlap in lip tones was found between Hispanic and Asian women.
- A 53-tone lip color chart, based on lightness and hue, was created, with Hispanic women represented across 32 tones.
Conclusions:
- Lip color is not solely determined by ethnicity, as evidenced by inter-group overlaps.
- The developed lip color chart serves as a global reference for lip color assessment.
- The 53 defined lip tones can guide the creation of more inclusive nude lipstick shades.
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