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The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...
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A wave is a disturbance that propagates from its source, repeating itself periodically, and is typically associated with simple harmonic motion. Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and require a medium to travel. A medium is a substance in which a mechanical wave propagates, and the medium produces an elastic restoring force when it is deformed.
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Sizing the largest ocean waves using the SWOT mission.

Fabrice Ardhuin1, Taina Postec1, Mickael Accensi1

  • 1Université de Brest, CNRS, Ifremer, Institut de Recherche pour le Développement, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Plouzané F-29280, France.

Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America
|September 16, 2025
PubMed
Summary
This summary is machine-generated.

Scientists used satellite data to measure long wave periods in ocean storms. This reveals how extreme waves form and can improve marine structure design and coastal dynamics modeling.

Keywords:
4-wave interactionsSWOTocean wavesstormsswell

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Area of Science:

  • Oceanography
  • Wave dynamics
  • Satellite remote sensing

Background:

  • Ocean waves are crucial for marine structures, air-sea fluxes, and coastal processes.
  • Extreme wave events are poorly understood due to measurement limitations, especially wave periods.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To investigate the generation mechanism of long wave periods within ocean storms.
  • To utilize satellite-observed swells to infer storm wave characteristics.

Main Methods:

  • Analysis of swells using Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) satellite sea level measurements.
  • Developing an updated parametric wave spectrum model aligned with SWOT data.

Main Results:

  • Observed patterns of swell wavelength and height consistent with energy transfer from short to long period waves.
  • Proposed wave spectrum model reduces energy at longer periods compared to existing models.
  • Estimated storm wave periods from swell heights, with the largest recorded peak period of 20.2 s for a significant wave height of 19.7 m.

Conclusions:

  • SWOT data successfully reveals long wave periods within storms and their generation.
  • The findings offer improved wave spectral models and methods for estimating extreme wave parameters.
  • Applications span coastal dynamics, marine engineering, and seismology.