From plant genetic resources to cosmetic active ingredients: when science meets regulation and market rules

The use of plants as a source of cosmetic ingredients has a long history, but has become increasingly important over the last three decades as consumers become more aware of the provenance of cosmetic products and their impact on the environment. Modern cosmetic ingredients must not only be safe, effective and sustainable, but must also comply with a complex framework of regulations, only some of which are internationally standardized. Consumers are also presented with an overlapping and poorly defined set of certification schemes offering claims of sustainability and environmental benefits. In this brief review article, we look at the regulations governing plant-based ingredients in the cosmetics industry, and how these intersect with modern biotechnological approaches for the development of ingredients with proven efficacy and sustainability. We showcase the example of InnCoCells, the first Horizon project dedicated to the development of cosmetic ingredients based on sustainable plant-based resources.