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Female Representation in Rock Climbing Research
Danielle Lee1, Shyamala Subramanian2, Linda E Keyes3
1Department of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, University of Washington, Seattle, WA.
Female representation in rock climbing research is limited, with females comprising only 36% of study participants and 21% of authors. Most research focuses on male climbers, potentially limiting applicability to female athletes.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Medical Research
- Gender Studies
Background:
- Rock climbing participation is nearing gender parity.
- However, the representation of females in rock climbing research is not well understood.
Purpose of the Study:
- To evaluate the gender distribution of study participants and authors in rock climbing research.
- To identify potential disparities in research focus and representation.
Main Methods:
- Systematic review of original research articles on rock climbers using PubMed and Embase.
- Data extraction on participant and author sex, with author gender classified using Genderize.io.
Main Results:
- 298 articles (1973-2023) were reviewed; females constituted 36% of reported participants.
- Females were underrepresented in injury, imaging, and rehabilitation studies (13-20%).
- Female authors accounted for 21% of total authorships, with lower representation as first (18%) or last (18%) authors.
Conclusions:
- Female representation in rock climbing research and authorship is significantly limited.
- The predominance of male participants in studies may restrict the generalizability of findings to female climbers.
- Further research is needed to ensure equitable representation and address the specific needs of female climbers.
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