Minimalist, bioinspired and sensorial emulsion based on a Ca²⁺ double cone vector system using Design of...

Innovation is considered a determining factor in the highly competitive environment of the cosmetic industry to introduce products while creating new needs. The goal of the study consisted of developing a highly natural and minimalist emulsion with sensorially pleasant skin application highlighted by an innovative ingredient based on a Ca²⁺ double cone vector system. The desired product characteristics include a creamy, white texture that is not too greasy or excessively whitening, with rapid skin penetration to facilitate its use for skin treatment.

To determine the ideal composition of the emulsion, a design of experiment (DoE) based strategy was applied in two steps: a screening step followed by optimisation. The screening step aimed to identify the key potential ingredients and process parameters that have a significant impact on the rheological and textural properties of the emulsion. The optimisation step provided the final emulsion formula with the desired physicochemical parameters and sensory characteristics.

After rheological and sensory analysis, the screening of different ingredients revealed that the combination of 0.8% xanthan gum as the thickening agent (TA), glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-3 stearate and hydrogenated lecithin as surfactant S1, and 1% of a mixture of C15-19 alkane (plant-based and renewable) - coco-caprylate/caprate as the sensory agent (SA1) provided the best sensorial qualities for the emulsion. The study demonstrated that the deflocculating rod met one of optimisation's target criteria through its process effect.

Based on DoE, the final formulation resulted in a visually white formulation that was neither too greasy nor excessively whitening and highly penetrative of the skin, offering a comfortable face or body cream application for adults and children.