Skin Performance of Innovative NaDES-Based Gels: In Vivo Evaluation of Anti-Irritation Potential and Short-Term...

Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) represent novel biodegradable green extraction solvents obtained from natural metabolites such as sugars and organic acids. NaDES-based extracts have demonstrated better performance in in vitro assays compared to those obtained using conventional solvents. In this study, extracts of bilberry leaves (BL), bilberry fruits (BF), and green tea leaves (TL) were prepared using the following NaDES, respectively-malic acid + glycerol (MG), citric acid + sorbitol (CS), and tartaric acid + sorbitol (TS), whose formation was confirmed via FTIR spectroscopy. With the aim to evaluate the effect of gels loaded with NaDES extracts on skin biophysical parameters 2 h prior their application, as well as their anti-irritation potential against sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation, an in vivo study involving human volunteers was conducted. The results indicated that all extract-loaded gels exhibited notable anti-irritation potential, reducing artificially induced irritation and improving elevated skin parameters including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI), and pH. The ΔTEWL at CS-BF site was 8.20 ± 0.34, while at TS-TL was 5.63 ± 0.30. The short-term efficacy study revealed increased skin hydration across all treated sites, preservation of skin pH within physiological limits, and reduction in EI at the site treated with TS-TL gel. Further in vivo studies are planned for confirming long-term skin effects.