Lipidated peptide nanostructures for stabilizing hydrogels with sustained skincare bioactivity

Bioactive peptides have become important ingredients in upmarket cosmetics due to their excellent biocompatibility and skincare effects. However, relatively low skin penetration and instability retard their applications. In this study, a palmitoyl peptide-based "bioactive ingredient reservoir" is established to enhance skin penetration and peptide stability, and the persistent ingredient release is endowed. The experimental results identify Pal-KVK as superior molecules to form helical ribbons and realize multiple skincare efficacies. Pal-KVK shows aggregate transitions from lamella to double-layer lamellae and final helical superstructures (hydrogel state), driven by combined hydrophobic interaction, electrostatic force, and hydrogen bonding. This kind of self-assembled structures allow for sustained release of active Pal-KVK ingredients through disassembly. In addition, the Pal-KVK aggregates are embedded within a gelatin matrix to prepare a composite hydrogel mask, implementing long-lasting skincare efficacy. Transdermal evaluation and cellular toxicity assay for Pal-KVK system confirm its excellent skin penetration ability and biocompatibility. Consumer dermatological evaluations have conclusively proven that Pal-KVK/gelatin composite hydrogel mask has excellent anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects, thus developing an effective and advanced skincare method.