Effects of Acute and Moderate Caffeine Doses on Sport Climbing Performance: A Randomized Controlled Trial

Area of Science:

• Sports Science
• Exercise Physiology
• Nutritional Supplementation

Background:

• Caffeine is a known ergogenic aid for various sports, but its effects on sport climbing are not well-researched.
• Sport climbing demands unique physical attributes like grip strength, power, and muscular endurance.
• This study investigates the impact of a low caffeine dose on climbing-specific performance metrics.

Purpose of the Study:

• To determine the acute effects of a 3 mg/kg caffeine dose on climbing-specific performance.
• To assess caffeine's impact on pull-up performance (1RM, power, endurance) and grip strength metrics.
• To evaluate subjective psycho-physiological responses to caffeine in climbers.

Main Methods:

• A triple-blind, randomized, crossover design was employed with thirteen intermediate-advanced male climbers.
• Participants completed two trials: one with caffeine (3 mg/kg) and one with a placebo.
• Performance was measured using pull-up tests (1RM, power, endurance) and grip tests (dead-hang time, strength, RFD).

Main Results:

• Caffeine supplementation did not significantly enhance any objective climbing performance variables.
• A non-significant increase in peak power was observed, but effects on endurance and grip strength were trivial or slightly negative.
• Participants reported increased subjective feelings of strength, energy, and alertness with caffeine.

Conclusions:

• A 3 mg/kg dose of caffeine does not provide statistically or practically significant ergogenic benefits for pull-up or grip performance in climbers.
• Caffeine altered subjective psycho-physiological state but failed to translate into objective performance improvements.
• Future research should explore higher caffeine doses or different sport-specific performance tests for climbers.