Potential of organogel-based colloidal hydrogels for new cosmetic formulations

The cosmetics industry is always seeking new formulations that offer pleasant and effective textures. This study aimed to explore new systems based on aqueous dispersions of organogel particles capable of forming colloidal hydrogels.

Aqueous dispersions of gelled oil particles were obtained by hot formation of oil-in-water emulsions followed by cooling. Depending on the type of oil and dispersing agent, different colloidal hydrogels were formed. Their microstructure, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated.

By using 12-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) as the organogelator, colloidal hydrogels were systematically obtained, regardless of the oil or surfactant used. However, microstructures and resulting textures could be modulated from a rheological or sensory point of view by adjusting ingredient type and proportion. Moreover, nonionic surfactants led to firmer textures than charged surfactants.

Stable colloidal hydrogels were developed using two emollient oils and three common surfactants. Texture analyses, as well as their rheological and sensory behaviour, demonstrated their potential interest in the development of new cosmetic formulations.