Anti-Melanogenic Potential of Emulsions Containing Jaboticaba Peel Extract (Plynia peruviana (Poir.) Govaerts)

Skin hyperpigmentation is a common concern that can significantly impact aesthetic perception and self-esteem. Consequently, there is growing interest in identifying natural inhibitors of melanin synthesis to develop cosmetic formulations that are effective, safe, and sustainable. This study aimed to develop, characterize, and evaluate the in vitro anti-melanogenic potential of emulsions containing jaboticaba (Plynia peruviana (Poir.) Govaerts) peel extract in combination with azelaic acid (AA).

Four distinct formulations were prepared: TAAJ (AA + jaboticaba extract, with turbo-shear mixing), AAJ (AA + jaboticaba extract, without high-shear mixing), TAAAE (AA + ellagic acid (EA), with turbo- shear mixing), and TAA (AA, with turbo-shear mixing). All formulations underwent physicochemical characterization and statistical analysis.

Particle sizes ranged from 295.20 to 630.50 nm, with polydispersity index (PDI) values between 0.1 and 1.0, and zeta potential from -6.82 to +2.02 mV. Jaboticaba peel extract demonstrated excellent performance in both antioxidant assays and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, surpassing conventional agents. TAAJ exhibited the highest anti-melanogenic activity, achieving the greatest tyrosinase inhibition and the lowest IC50. TAAJ and AAJ showed the strongest copper-ion chelating activity, while jaboticaba peel extract and TAAAE also displayed chelating capacity; TAA showed none. TAA induced the most significant reduction in melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells.

Among the tested formulations, the most promising was selected based on macroscopic characteristics, presenting a homogeneous, milky appearance without phase separation. This suggests that all tested formulations exhibited some degree of anti-melanogenic activity, likely through distinct mechanisms influenced by the complex interactions among their active components.

To the best of our knowledge, no previous studies have investigated jaboticaba peel extract for skin hyperpigmentation. These findings highlight jaboticaba peel extract-an agro-industrial byproduct-as a promising and eco-friendly ingredient for hyperpigmentation treatment, supporting the development of innovative cosmetic formulations leveraging sustainable, plant-based resources.