Exploring the Chemical Complexity and Toxicological Behaviour of Semi-permanent Make-Up Pigments: A Systematic Review
T A N Kaye1, M B Komane1, A P Manyisane1
1Department of Human Movement and Therapeutic Sciences: Somatology, Tshwane University of Technology, Pretoria, South Africa.
Journal of Applied Toxicology : JAT
|April 21, 2026
Summary
Semi-permanent make-up (SPMU) pigments contain toxic metals and nanoparticles. Their properties drive toxicity, necessitating harmonized regulations and nanotoxicological evaluations for consumer safety.
Area of Science:
- Toxicology
- Dermatology
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Semi-permanent make-up (SPMU), or micropigmentation, involves dermal implantation of pigments for cosmetic enhancement.
- SPMU pigments persist in tissues, unlike topical cosmetics, posing unique toxicological challenges due to complex mixtures including metal elements and nanoparticles.
- Physicochemical properties of SPMU pigments critically influence their biological interactions and toxicity.
Purpose of the Study:
- To systematically review current evidence on the chemical composition, toxicokinetics, and toxicity mechanisms of SPMU pigments.
- To assess the compliance of SPMU pigments with regulatory limits.
- To highlight the need for enhanced regulation and consumer safety measures in the SPMU industry.
Main Methods:
- A narrative systematic review guided by PRISMA principles.
- Examination of existing literature on SPMU pigment composition, biological interactions, and toxicological effects.
- Analysis of reported noncompliance with regulatory standards for metals like chromium.
Main Results:
- Pigment physicochemical properties are central to biological activity and toxicity.
- Identified toxicity mechanisms include reactive oxygen species generation, DNA damage, inflammation, and systemic pigment distribution.
- Widespread noncompliance with regulatory limits for metals such as chromium was observed.
Conclusions:
- Urgent need for internationally harmonized regulation of SPMU pigments, including mandatory nanotoxicological evaluations.
- Strengthening regulatory frameworks supports Sustainable Development Goals for health, sanitation, and responsible consumption.
- Somatologists play a crucial role in guiding safe SPMU practices and educating clients.
Keywords:
chromiumcosmetic pigmentsgenotoxicitymicropigmentationnanoparticlesoxidative stressregulatory compliancesemi‐permanent make‐upsomatologytitanium dioxideMore Related Videos
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