Benign by design: A paradigm shift in cosmetic ingredient development.

Area of Science:

• Environmental Chemistry
• Green Chemistry
• Cosmetic Science

Background:

• Growing consumer concern over the environmental impact of cosmetic ingredients.
• Many cosmetic chemicals persist in wastewater and the environment due to incomplete removal during treatment.
• Environmental persistence of cosmetic ingredients poses a significant ecological challenge.

Purpose of the Study:

• To review Benign by Design (BbD) strategies for enhancing chemical biodegradability.
• To demonstrate the applicability of BbD strategies to cosmetic ingredient development.
• To promote the creation of environmentally friendly cosmetic ingredients.

Main Methods:

• Overview of de novo design and re-design approaches for biodegradability.
• Discussion of targeted and non-targeted BbD strategies.
• Application of experimental and in silico tools for assessing biodegradability.

Main Results:

• Linear alkyl chains and specific functional groups (hydroxyl, carbonyl, ester, amide, carboxylic acid) promote biodegradation.
• Alicyclic rings, branched alkyl chains, halogens, and nitro/nitroso/azo groups hinder biodegradation.
• BbD strategies are effective for designing biodegradable cosmetic ingredients, avoiding persistent substances like PFAS and silicones.

Conclusions:

• BbD strategies, successful in pharmaceuticals and chemicals, are highly relevant for cosmetic ingredients.
• Implementing BbD reduces environmental persistence and supports a sustainable cosmetic industry.
• BbD fosters innovation in cosmetic ingredient design, prioritizing environmental consciousness and resource preservation.