Bilateral Deficit Using a Climbing-Specific Fingerboard Test and Its Association with Sport Climbers' Performance

This study aimed to describe the upper-body bilateral deficit (BD) in recreational climbers and to examine its relationship with specific performance. Fifteen recreational climbers (11 men, 4 women; 25-45 years; ≥3 years of experience) performed unilateral and bilateral maximal isometric handgrip strength test (HGT), and unilateral and bilateral maximal isometric strength test using a climbing-specific fingerboard test (CSFT). The fatigue resistance index test (FRI) and the endurance capacity test (ECT) were used as performance tests. Paired Student's T-tests were used to compare bilateral deficit results between CSFT and HGT. Pearson's correlation was used to assess relationships between these variables with the level at 5%. The results showed a significant (p < 0.05) bilateral deficit in the CSFT (-2.53 ± 4.49%) and the HGT (-2.05 ± 3.29%), with no difference between methods. A positive correlation was found between bilateral deficit in the CSFT and the ECT (r = 0.53; p = 0.044), while no correlation was observed with the FRI. Relative bilateral strength to body mass was strongly associated with ECT (r = 0.92; p < 0.001). Greater bilateral deficit was associated with endurance capacity in climbers. In addition, the CSFT demonstrated good predictive accuracy and may be considered a specific and reliable tool for assessing BD in climbers.