Rebranding the Nation: Migrant Fashion Production and the Contested Politics of 'Made in Italy'

This article examines how Chinese migrant entrepreneurs in Prato engage with the contested meaning of the Made in Italy production label. As Chinese-run fashion firms have become central to Italy's fast fashion sector, their growing visibility has raised public concerns about authenticity, national identity, and the perceived erosion of cultural heritage. Drawing on 35 semi-structured interviews and ethnographic fieldwork, the study explores how commercial nationalism shapes both the marginalisation and the legitimisation of migrant-led production. It argues that the controversy surrounding Made in Italy reflects broader struggles over symbolic legitimacy and participation in national production in a globalised economy. The findings show that Chinese entrepreneurs rely on distinct forms of social capital to establish credibility, respond to exclusion, and reinterpret the meaning of national branding. By foregrounding the role of producers, the article contributes to debates on migrant entrepreneurship, nationhood, and the social foundations of economic legitimacy.